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[Gill123]
Is everyone
ready to start?
[Alyssa8]
can you
housetrain using a clicker?... how would you go
about introducing it?
[lmitchell]
I believe you
can housetrain using an event marker - maybe not a
clicker
[Alyssa8]
event marker?
[barbara5]
what do you
mean event marker?
[lmitchell]
I use Keep
going signals more than clickers for that sort of thing -
I don't want the puppy to quit "going" to come
and get a cookie. The clicker is
an event marker
[barbara5]
I thought so it makes him
realize what he's doing is the right thing, right?
[Alyssa8]
but he's got to
be conditioned with the clicker first, right?
[lmitchell]
the kgs (keep
going signal) tells him that AND to keep doing it. How about a
basic clicker training thought from me
[Alyssa8]
PLEASE
[lmitchell]
Okay - hang on... Operant
conditioning with an event marker = clicker training the dog offers
a condition (behaviour) and the clicker marks it. The clicker
has meaning because it is always followed by something
the dog wants - cookies normally The dog
eventually works for the clicker, but only because he was
conditioned to do so by having it followed with cookies. That's my
nutshell observation - complete with typos.
[Alyssa8]
makes perfect
sense. well said
[barbara5]
so when the dog
is pottying outside, you'd click when he was finished and
give him a cookie?
[Alyssa8]
or while he's
going?
[barbara5]
and then when
he's finished you give him a cookie?
[lmitchell]
As soon as the
dog starts to potty outside I quietly give him a keep
going signal - "gooood" or "that's
it". When is
complete done, then I reinforce him with the clicker and
a small party.
[barbara5]
so you don't
click until the end?
[mitchell]
The clicker
aborts whatever behaviour the dog is performing when he
hears it. Some puppies
will learn to go sporadically - a dribble here and there
if clicked too early in the process. END
[Gill123]
Thanks lana
[Alyssa8]
great. thanks
lana
[barbara5]
Ok, my question
is, can you phase out the snacks and eventually does the
clicker become the reward?
[lmitchell]
No. The
clicker should never be the reward. Remember the
role of the clicker.
[barbara5]
so you give him
a cookie every time you use the clicker?
[lmitchell]
It means Well
Done! and is followed with cookies. If it is not
followed by cookies (or something the dog will work to
get) it has no power. It would be
like getting your pay check and finding out it is not
worth money at the bank.
[leroydogg]
surely it's
best to just give fuss if that is sufficient for the
individual dog, rather than getting into
[barbara5]
so really, you
use other markers like well done and at the end give the
clicker and the treat. For instance, walking on loose
lead.
[lmitchell]
Whatever the
dog will work for. I have a
sheltie who will work to see me smile - Chloe will work
for dry dog food -Saucy, my
hound, wants liver. It is the
clicker that is faded, rather than the primary
reinforcement that follows it. We put the
click on a variable schedule, but not the primary
reinforcement - that's what keeps the dog working over
long periods.
[Gill123]
Its what the dog
WANTS, not what you think it should have that is classed
as a reward
[lmitchell]
Yes, Gill
[Gill123]
Does everyone
understand this?
[lmitchell]
Too many
people want their dogs to work for wieners when the dog
would give them much more if they just used liver
occasionally.
[Gill123]
thanks Lana,
that ok Barbara?
[Alyssa8]
I've heard
you're supposed to wait longer & longer before giving
the reward.....what's that about?
[lmitchell]
Delaying the
click - not the primary reinforcement, will give
something new. Varying the
reinforcement ALWAYS varies the behavior - an important
fact to keep in mind If I'm
teaching a down, for instance... The dog will
always jump up at the sound of the click - he should So, how do I
keep him down for a few minutes? I vary the
reinforcement
[Alyssa8]
delay the click?
[lmitchell]
I click later.
[barbara5]
so he stays
down till you click?
[lmitchell]
The dog will
"time out" if I normally click him after 5
seconds and jump up then I wait. He offers
another down, because that is what he's been reinforced for I click. Now he knows
to wait for the click - an implied down stay.
Alyssa8]
wow. makes
perfect sense when you explain it. thanks, lana
[Gill123]
Thanks
[Doghouse86]
Hi Lana
[lmitchell]
Hi
[Doghouse86]
My question
is also about continuing actions. How do you
get a dog to walk on a loose lead?
[lmitchell]
Loose lead
walking - one of the questions I am asked most.
[Doghouse86]
I see how to
make him wait for the click but how do
you start the behaviour?
[lmitchell]
First - this
is going to be long, so hang on. Making like a
tree doesn't work with clicker training and here's why. The dog is
really the training in operant conditioning training. He GIVES
behaviors that will cause the human to click. So, dogs will
pull, stop pulling, and look back, waiting for the click.
- they are very good trainers.
[Doghouse86]
yes I have
tried this
[lmitchell]
I use the
backward walking technique where I start at a starting
line and as soon as the dog pulls I back up behind my
starting line. My only words
of interaction with the dog are my verbal "Let's
Go" command to start walking. In about 4 of
these go back behind the starting line episodes, the dog
realizes he has gained no ground. About two more
and he realizes his pulling has caused it. I don' t start
forward until the dog is not sniffing or pulling and he
quickly tries to get into a position to MAKE me start.
[barbara5]
every time? so
you go back to the very start every time he pulls?
[lmitchell]
This works
better than anything - I start clicking and feeding after
the dog is training me to do so :)... I often use a
target - a food bowl so he pulls in an anticipated
direction.
[Alyssa8]
oh what a GREAT
idea!!!!!!
[lmitchell]
I go back
every time he pulls. I work this in
40' lengths, I then take it
"on the road" so he knows the rules apply
elsewhere.
[Alyssa8]
Gill's old
standby.....try it in at least three places so they
realize it's not site-specific
[barbara5]
oh, so if he
gets 40 feet the first time, and starts pulling you go
back to the start, but then if he gets 80 feet do you go
back 40 feet or all the way???
[lmitchell]
I don't work
80 foot lengths - only 40 maximum. Later on, I
merely have to bend my wrist and take a half step
backward - the dog literally jumps into position to get
me to walk.
[Doghouse86]
Thank you so
much Lana I will try this
[Gill123]
good explanation
Lana, thanks.
[barbara5]
Tina, I guess
its your turn
[Tina123]
I would like to
know what you think are the top 3 most important clicker concepts
for a instructor to get across to a clicker class. i.e..
targeting, shaping, capturing, luring, etc. and why?
[barbara5]
good question,
Tina!
[lmitchell]
Easy.. The clicker
ALWAYS aborts the behavior The clicker is
ALWAYS followed with a primary reinforcement The clicker
never lies to the dog - it ALWAYS means those two things One more -- my
own dogs. When they see
a clicker in my hand it signals them that I'm looking for
new behaviors only.
[Tina123]
simpler then I
thought thanks!
[lmitchell]
Now, I know
that didn't answer your question - so you may reword it
if you want.
[barbara5]
oh. I see. it's
not to continue rewarding a behavior they already know.
[Tina123]
I was also just
thinking of the most important (maybe easiest) to start
with for pet dogs. i.e. targeting ,luring etc
[lmitchell]
No, to keep
the clicker in all the time would mean always having to
click a behavior.
[barbara5]
so once a dog
learns a behaviour, do you stop rewarding?
[lmitchell]
We fade the
clicker quickly, so the dog doesn't have to always be
reinforced for it.
[barbara5]
ok. I think I'm beginning to get it.
[lmitchell]
At my
workshops I have Chloe perform up to 50 separate
behaviors on command with no reinforcements at all.
[Alyssa8]
so you basically
teach the behavior, then assume she's already got it and
lose the clicker?
[lmitchell]
This is to
show people that clicker-trained dogs are not dependant
upon the clicker or cookies, but are trained
"normal" dogs. I use verbal
reinforcements ("yes") and keep going signals.
[barbara5]
if a dog starts
to "backslide" what do you do.
[lmitchell]
Dogs don't
backslide - either they know the behaviour or they don't.
If they don't, they were weaned off reinforcement before
they learned.
[Alyssa8]
but what if they
choose not to listen unless you're click/treat?
lmitchell]
What if they
choose not to listen? Many people using clicker are using
them before the behaviour to get the dog's attention. This is not
correct use. Correct use is to wait for a behaviour or
lure, model, or guide for a behaviour and then click.
[Gill123]
Ok looks like
CHRIS 7 is going to ask his question
[Chris7]
How do you
sharpen someone's use of the clicker ?
[lmitchell]
A good way to
sharpen your use of the clicker is to play the shaping
game with humans and with as many animals as you can. Start with
very simple behaviours - touching nose to hand (dog)
[Gill123]
I love that
game!
[lmitchell]
It is a very
worthwhile game to play - allows you to see how the
clicker works and learn about your own timing.
[barbara5]
could you
explain a little more
[lmitchell]
Explain a
little more - about the shaping game?
[barbara5]
yes I don't'
know what you mean.
[lmitchell]
Here's a quick
picture -- Several people
get together and take turns being the trainer and the
subject. Each subject
is trained to perform a simple behavior - touch
something, clap hands, stand on one foot. While the
trainer is working, the others look on and "see the
forest for the trees". Trainers often
cannot "see" what the problem is because they
are too closely involved That's why it
helps to have people watch and learn and offer
suggestions.
[Gill123]
Ok everyone
happy with that?
[Tina123]
If you could
pick your ideal number of dogs in a beginner class how
many would it be?
[lmitchell]
I like 6 in a
beginner class - I've done up to 10, but no more.
[Tina123]
thanks
[Bayfield]
any suggestions
for those of us with poor eye/hand coordination?
[lmitchell]
Poor eye/hand
coordination -- practice, practice, practice. Let your dog
let you know. Also, don't
despair. I have a
friend who always clicks late - her terriers have adapted
to it and are doing fine. BUT she is
consistently late, not just sometimes - that is the key
for her...
[Bayfield]
yes, my dogs
are very patient with me
[Gill123]
thanks, you're an angel
[lmitchell]
Gee - Thanks
guys
[AlyssaKay]
thanks......is
it possible to Clicker train two dogs at the same time?
or do I have to train them each separately?
[lmitchell]
I have trained
two dogs simultaneously for a behaviour here and there I don't
recommend it for serious behaviours, though. My advice is
to always have one dog out at a time, shape the behaviour
on each, and then put them together if it is a multi-dog
behaviour that you are shaping.
[AlyssaKay]
ok for
introducing clicker training or should I wait until they
understand the whole concept one at a time?
[lmitchell]
I'm teaching
my dogs to jump over each other, but am teaching it one
dog at a time until it is "known" to each When a dog
starts to learn about clicker training, he is fragile I would keep
that part separate, for sure. I'm not saying it won't
work. I just go for the best results rather than just
some results.
[AlyssaKay]
right. thanks... LOL......what
a great idea! sounds like lots of fun. thanks lana, point
taken.
[Gill123]
Anyone else for
a last question?
[leroydogg]
question
[Gill123]
Ok Chris
[leroydogg]
Where d'ye buy
a clicker
[lmitchell]
Direct Book
Service, Sit Stay Go
Out Store .. Both are
on-line.
[AlyssaKay]
I got mine
from J&J Dog Supplies online..
[lmitchell]
Karen Pryor's
site has then, too.
leroydogg]
Thanks
[Gill123]
Lana - have you
made a video on clicker training?
[lmitchell]
I'm just going
"public" with sales on my site this year and
will be selling goodies with plastic.
[Gill123]
Great - let me
know when you do please
[AlyssaKay]
ooh! one more,
one more! (waving hand frantically)
[Gill123]
OK Alyssa
[AlyssaKay]
any books YOU
would recommend on training? clicker or otherwise?
[lmitchell]
Of course I
recommend my own Practical Clicker Training Guide a
general "bible" for new clicker trainers. Morgan's book
on competition training is good. It has good
information on clicker training for obedience in the US.
[AlyssaKay]
would that
apply to dogs who aren't necessarily training for
competition or obedience?
[lmitchell]
Just about
anything by Karen is a good read most of it doesn't have
to do directly with clicker training, but none of it is
bad information to know.
[AlyssaKay]
so it all
applies. that's good to know. thanks, lana -- I can't
wait to read your bible
Gill123]
You ever been to
the UK Lana?
[lmitchell]
Never been to
the UK. Sorry..... Alyssa - your
question about good for dogs not training for competition
- my book would be, yes, and Karen's also.
AlyssaKay]
thanks, Lana.
sometimes I feel overwhelmed by the amount of info that's
out there in books!
lmitchell]
I know what you
mean about the books.
[leroydogg]
by the time
you finish reading, you haven't time to do the work
lmitchell]
I own many of
them but have read very few. I tend to learn by the seat
of my pants, so to speak.
[AlyssaKay]
exactly. and
no matter what you read, it always seems to contradict
SOMETHING that works with your dogs.
[Gill123]
that sounds like
me Lana! and just when I
think I've got it right - a dog tells me otherwise
[lmitchell]
I collect
antique training books. They are very interesting. Believe it or
not, the books written in the 20's to 40's taught
motivational methods.
[Bayfield]
that's why I
like the Behaviour-Problems forum. It's consistent,
therefore less confusing for me (and the canines)
[leroydogg]
I need a foot
up the seat of my pants for all the mistakes i've made
[LadyMax]
My question is
can you train a dog with a clicker and use normal
training methods. My club does not yet use clickers
[lmitchell]
Can you train
a dog with a clicker and use normal training methods.
What are Normal training methods?
[LadyMax]
Praise and
reward I do not want to
use a clicker in the class as with the pup I am training
I am a student at the moment, taking advice from a senior
trainer
[lmitchell]
Here's what I
did as a clicker trainer. I had a
favorite trainer because she was a perfectionist - like
me. She did not
believe in the clicker. I taught it at
home the week before, took my little Star of a dog to
class, and had the benefit of a great trainer and a
clicker trained dog. When she
recommended leash pops and pinch collars I merely stated
I would work on it at home - and I did.
[leroydogg]
leash pops?
[lmitchell]
I can tell you
that leash pops (collar jerks) and clicker don't mix.
[LadyMax]
Did you use the
clicker in the class?
[lmitchell]
I used my
verbal click - since these were "known"
behaviors, the clicker was already being faded. I said
"yes" for click and "that's it" for a
KGS.
[LadyMax]
I have to
confess that | am not very good at leash pops (too much
of a softy with the dogs)
[lmitchell]
Me too - not
always, but in recent years. There's usually a better way
than force.
[AlyssaKay]
better to be a
softy than hurt your dog,
[lmitchell]
An ill-timed
click has never turned a dog off to training.
[Gill123]
Better to use
brain than brawn
[LadyMax]
So if I told
Benji that he was 'good' when I click then when I go to
class I just have to use 'good' instead of a click
[lmitchell]
Pair the
verbal click with the clicker just as you paired the
primary reinforcer with the clicker. The verbal will mean
click to the dog, but will still abort the behavior, etc.
END
[Gill123]
Well Lana, I'm sure you now feel
thoroughly exhausted.. I think its time
we let you go back to your life.. Thank you so
much for joining us with your wisdom
[AlyssaKay]
thank you SO
Much lana!!!
[leroydogg]
Yes, thank you
[Tina123]
Thanks very much
Lana
[Bayfield]
good to know
that even I can succeed with clicker training. Thanks,
Lana
[AlyssaKay]
what great
advice.....I can't wait to start using my clicker (was
kind of afraid to "screw it up" but now I see
you can't go wrong -- just a few missteps here &
there)
[Chris7]
Thank you Lana I
will work on the Aussie trip
[lmitchell]
Thank you all
for the good questions.
[LadyMax]
I enjoyed the
bit I managed to see, thank you. Pity we can't train
computers to behave themselves
[lmitchell]
Computers are
easy - you just have to know where to kick 'em. I wish I could
have covered more - another day.
[AlyssaKay]
you covered
plenty. I can't wait to read your- book......hopefully
we'll see you again if you ever have the time
[lmitchell]
Okay, I'll go
give my fingers a rest - until we "meet again"
[Gill123]
Its been a
learning curve and thoroughly enjoyable experience.. Bye.
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